FlySky GT3: FS-GT3 2.0″ LCD 2.4G Wireless 3-CH Gun Transmitter with Receiver for R/C Car and Boat (8*AA)
FlySky GT3B: New improved version of the GT3
3CH recievers: FlySky 3CH receiver
6CH receivers: FlySky 6CH receiver
8CH receivers: FlySky 8CH receiver
DSC Cable for PC: FlySky VRC Simulator cable
Battery Lipo pack: HobbyKing Turnigy Transmitter Batteries (1450mah)
JR Modules to replace the stock TM002:
Compatible FrSky module
Compatible FrSky module with Telemetry (my fav!)
Compatible Corona module
Compatible Assan module
I already did a more thorough review of the FlySky FS-GT3 V1 in this post. So this will just be updates on what has changed. As far as I can tell, the only thing that has changed is the transmitter module and the receivers. The actual pistol-grip unit is identical to the first version.
The transmitter module included is now FS-TM002. I can’t really tell what is different. It looks about the same but has more writing on the back. 🙂 In fact, I took the FS-TM001 out of my V1 GT3 and swapped in the FS-TM002 module. It worked. However the TM002 module will not work with the older FS-GR3A receivers. I couldn’t bind with it. So something has changed. The TM002 only binds with the FS-GR3C receivers. It worked with my Redcat Racing DSM-2C receiver and there are reports that it also works with the very cheap HobbyKing HK-GT2R receiver as well. I’ll test it out when my order from HK arrives.
FlySky doesn’t mention this but it looks like this 2.4ghz transmitter module is FHSS, frequency hopping spread spectrum. Every manufacturer calls it something different. Futaba calls it FAAST. FlySky calls it AFHDS. Frequency hopping is good in that the signal is spread across multiple channels within the 2.4Ghz band. So if one channel has interference, it merely hops to other channels to communicate. The earlier GT3 and FlySky models only had one channel in the 2.4Ghz band to use. Which was not good because if there was strong interference in that particular frequency that it was using, you can lose signal. So it’s now in the same league as Futaba/FrSky/Hitec, when it comes to using FHSS. Even Spektrum/JR’s DSM2 system doesn’t have FHSS 😉 But one day Spektrum will join the party too since even the little known Chinese companies are jumping on board.
How to bind the RX (receiver) to the TX (transmitter):
1. Plug bind plug into CH3, turn on car, the LED light should flash
2. Hold down bind button on transmitter module while turning on the TX
3. The light should go steady now
4. Let go of bind button, turn off car, remove bind plug, turn off TX
5. Turn on TX and then turn on car, it should be bound now
The reason why I bought this version was so I can have the new fail-safe feature. The new receivers, FS-GR3C, has a fail-safe option. There is a button on the receiver that you press to set it. I wanted this for my nitro buggy because with a nitro buggy if you lose signal at full throttle, the car continues to go full throttle until it crashes! You will either damage something or hurt someone really bad. You can differentiate the FS-GR3A from the FS-GR3C by looking at the top-right corner of the RX. The new FS-GR3C has a signal LED and a fail-safe key.
To set the fail-safe:
(Please note there is only a fail-safe for channel 2. 1 & 3 do not have fail-safe)
1. Turn on both RX and TX
2. Hold the throttle (CH2) in the position you want it to be in when fail-safe kicks in (example: brake position). Alternatively, you can use your throttle trim to put the throttle in brake mode, instead of holding down the trigger, it’s easier.
3. Press the fail-safe button until it blinks and turns solid again.
4. Test it! Go full throttle and turn the radio off. It should go to brake position.
Like the previous model, this has a DSC port on the back of the transmitter near the charging port. I finally know what it does. You have to get a USB dongle that has a 3.5mm mono end. This dongle is FS-SM100 according to a manual. However, I had a number of these dongles that I got from DX and various flight transmitters and they all work. This dongle allows you to plug the GT3 into your PC and use it as a game controller for a RC car simulator like VRC/Duratrax RealRace or any game for that matter. Possibly Need for Speed type of games. But I love this old game called GeneRally and it works well with it. Another use for your radio when not bashing around the park with it!
Either one of these cables work with the GT3’s DSC port.
USB FMS Simulator Cable for Futaba and ESky Remote Controllers
USB Simulator Cable for Futaba JR FS R/C Remotes
I plugged the dongle into into my Windows 7 machine, turned on my GT3 and it detected it as a HID-compliant game controller with the name PPM. CH1/CH2 maps to X/Y axis while CH3 maps to the Z Axis. Make sure you calibrate it in the settings page. Note that I’m using Win7 but I’m sure it would work with WinXP as well.
Take a look at the pics to see the differences. As I mentioned, there isn’t a whole lot. So if you already have a GT3 v1 and don’t need the fail-safe feature I say skip the V3. The GT3 continues to be a great radio for an incredible price. It looks expensive but is dirt cheap!